Monday 1 November 2010

As the light fades

It seems nonsensical to have projects anywhere other than the cave.

I'm super excited for Wednesday to see if I can get a third cave 8A/+ 3 weeks running but things will no doubt become trickier having no more daylight hours redpoints.

It's been a fairly lazy week since last Weds. I had a couple of rest days in a row and woke up with a weird shoulder niggle on the right on Saturday morning. I decided to theraband in the shop and had a light session on the stepped wall of justice in the evening, projecting the red and salmon v7's on the far right (they seem a bit poor value after 3 sessions working and no tick!).

It was feeling mildly better yesterday so I had a session on the 45 whilst watching the Pinnmeister seemingly attempt to snap all of his fingers doing pocket style ladder training on the campus board. No doubt he will rock up to the Laboratory and make a mockery of these foreign grades!

With regards to the board session, it went ok but I was having a super greasy skin session where I could literally pull on then fire off any hold at random. It was fairly productive highlighting again my weaknesses on any angle between a roof and a slab.

I definitely need to work on:

- Feet/body positioning
- Climbing more open
- pinch strength
- contact strength
- locking holds down
- getting less sweaty skin
- wear dragons/teams/v10's and not solutions that are too tight and rounded on the toe

I'll try and get a couple of sessions a week in on the board as I think my general redpoint fitness for longer problems is ok... but I'm definitely lacking in the basic strength department.

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