Monday 6 June 2011

A brief update

I've had nothing much to report over the last few weeks but did manage to get to do some outdoor rock climbing as well as another comp experience under the belt.

Elephantitus

Me and little Hoppo chugged over at a steady pace to find Llanberis in sunshine. We got a brew then hit the road. The cromlech boulders were parked out, so we sacked warming up and went straight through rain at pen-y-pass to overcast dryness and a stiff breeze down at Llyn Gwynant.

It wasn't much fun carrying 4 pads between us but made it worthwhile once there with the dodgy rocks on the floor.

The warmup consisted of an arduous walk in, followed by some starjumps and some pullups on jugs and crimps.

We had a small camera with us to try get some footage together to make some Team Hangar short clips to appease the sponsor and fought our way into some crippling toedowns.

I did a couple of laps on Elephantitus to warmup and give Hoppo the sequence and he got it done relatively fast, having to cut loose to hold on to the sloper move.

I managed a smooth lap of Going down on an elephant and then Hoppo came very close, falling off at the sloper crux of elephantitus 3 times!

The goal for the day was to get Tusk done as I had seen Sorle piss it on a facebook vid recently. I initially found the crimp very painful and the left heel hard to lock in and weight but eventually it all came together with the changing of Hornets for my ever reliable Team shoes!

When it went it felt utter piss for the grade but it had felt nails until that moment. I thought I may as well have a burn on Cross Therapy as the videos of Sorle walking it and Danny mauling it were quite inspiring.

It went fairly well cruising through the start and also the crossunder and campus drop down move. I got into Tusk and had the heel in, left hand guppy... coil up to throw.. then the heel ripped out.

I was quite psyched by the first attempt so rested up whilst Mike carried on trying GDOAE. He got about 10 attempts into the space of 15 mins and it was time to go again..

I got through to the exact same place feeling even better than on the first go, the guppy felt good and the heel solid. This time I coiled and threw over left hand to the pinch catching it in the right spot and celebrated a bit prematurely in my head only for the heel to peel off as I started to engage the thumb.

We sacked it off and went to Jerrys Roof to try and get Jerry's and Bus Stop on the camera but the batteries died and we were a bit knackered from all the walking about, so the day was cut short to pick up stock in Beris and go for pizza and a pint.

Roc Bloc

After looking at the list of people entered, the goal was to try and get in the top 20, maybe 15 at a push and I managed an ok 15th place despite falling off 2 I definitely should have flashed (then failed to even complete).

The field was deep and packed full of beastliness with Dave Barrans not even making the final 6!

For my fellow Hangar Team, Sean did really well getting 12th place and Mike psyche came in 14th after some point scoring error where we all thought he had come 10th but it wasn't to be.

Little Hoppo walked the boys 11-15 category looking about twice the size of all his rivals and his age was questioned by a rather suspicious announcer. He's looking stacked for a kidda... going to be scary in a couple of years!

Becki and Laura both did well getting into the final 12 in the womens and it goes without saying that Shauna crushed in the women's being pushed very close by Mina.

The comp was pretty fun with a nice variety of things to be getting on with but the heat was unbelievable (people were outside in the sunny 25 deg heat cooling down!).

As at the depot comp last December I managed to get another shoulder area injury but this time on the right hand side. Not quite sure what it is yet, but it feels like I pulled my tricep/lat/back of shoulder right across when on the green roof problem in the shady cave corner. I carried on after and still did another few problems but it hurt yesterday and is marginally better today.

Going to be super careful and not mess it up before a return to Magic Wood on June 18th :)

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