Wednesday 9 March 2011

Training for Swizzy pt 2

There hasn't been any 'training' to speak of, mainly climbing!

With the good weather carrying over from the previous week, we got out another couple of times.

Sat 5th March

Myself, Sean and Darren from the Hangar went to the S Lakes as it looked promisingly dry with a bit of cloud cover, which meant no furnace-like conditions on the Shelterstone Face.

We had a good warmup on the Red Wall and hit the main block.

I gave Darren a tour of some of the easier lines on there and warmed up for Wheelbarrow by climbing the Groove and the Pit problem start, although I found this hard! Sean pointed out that I put my right foot too far around, which was making it harder.

With a rest and this advice in mind, I put my heel much closer up to my hand and hey presto, the move felt much easier. I got past the crossunder and 1 arm unwind into the jug out right then climbed to the lip only for my right hand to fire off.

Sean then waltzed along it with a bit of a grunt to top out. I was suitably inspired and booted up once again. The start went well and before I knew it, I was topping out with energy to spare... which bodes well for Pacman!

Sadly my right shoulder felt quite heavy/clunky so I stopped immediately. The slightly violent nature of the slap move was obviously not ideal on a still dodgy shoulder.

Sean finally did Vitruvian Man and it was no longer a shit problem but 'the best 7C I've ever done'!

We then went over to Woodwell and showed Darren some more Gaskins test pieces and he got a few of the v3/4's in the bag before we packed up and headed the Hangar.

Mon 7th - Tues 8th March

I got the Hangar early only to find Ged bleary eyed making coffee and Hoppo asleep on the couch after a late night of setting.

Ged couldn't locate his car so we smuggled him to Wales in the van after Neil and Joe had said it was glorious sunshine in the pass.

This proved correct and after a brief coffee stop at V12, we went the Roadside and retro flashed the classics.

Moving down to Jerry's we found Rich Ames and friends having a session on the direct finish to Jerry's up some slopey looking gastons/pinches.

Sean got Bus Stop finished off after having puntered the top out last year and Ged worked on Jerry's. I did a lap of Bus Stop to stay warm and fell off the top of jerry's in a brain freeze moment. We then headed up to the Wavelength.

Ged flashed King of Drunks with the heavy beta and also Lordy Lordy!

Back down the hill and I rewarmed up on the Meadow Roof before tackling the Lotus. 5 times I made it to the fingerswap edge only to grease off in the slightly damp conditions.

It went dark and we went back to Beris, had a nice meal and a couple pints, then dropped Ged off at the roundabout.

Me and Hoppo spent a rather chilly night in the van in -6! I definitely need to get a warmer sleeping bag as I was in full thermals and a hoody by the morning.

A breakfast/shower/shit combo at Pete's set us up perfectly for another day in the Pass and we did a brief warmup before I once again dragged Sean up the hill back to the Lotus.

He lay down trying not to be sick and I got really psyched to finish things.

Redpoint number 1 looked like it would be it as I swapped hands on the edge and reached for the pinch out right only to have my foot pop. Devastating but progress!

Next go was looking sketchy as I barely switched hands but after getting out right and a bit of screaming it was done.

And so the week of crush came to an end.

I was relieved the shoulder was ok after tweaking it a bit at Trowbarrow and I'll probably have to avoid Pacman/Iron Man till it gets a bit stronger as the right hand slap is a bit of a no go.

A few rest days and theraband should do the trick this week and I'll maybe go try to finish off other business this Saturday.

No comments: