Getting Specific

Recent Trips
I planned to go back to the Bowderstone to get XXXX done about 2 weeks ago and instead wound up with man flu for about 8 days, having to get cover in work for the majority of that time.

Fri 13th
After a couple of getting back into the swing of things sessions down at the Hangar I visited the cave with Hoppo. I had gone pretty far backwards on Pilgrim from getting to near the end of R.A. from not even getting into it. This was a combination of shit skin and weakness but mainly the latter. I turned my attention to Louis Armstrong and immediately started to enjoy myself having to try hard on every move instead of failing due to the pump. I can't remember the last time I tried really really hard on an individual move... it has been too long! The highlight of the day was not getting a new problem done but almost sticking the crux slap on LA, having hit the lip and kept my feet on for maybe 0.5 seconds. This was minute progress but progress all the same.

Sun 15th
A few days later and I found myself in the pass with Laura, Millso and Hoppo. We had just been to the Braichmelyn boulder and climbed a few horrendously painful problems which resulted in a split left index. Realising Diesel Power was in the best condition I had ever seen and with the persuasive psyche of Mr T Mills... the opportunity was too good to pass up to see if I could get anywhere on it.

With fresh beta to try, I finally linked the first couple of moves together and worked out a sequence for the end but I just couldn't work out the go-again right hand move at all. I could hit the hold but instantly collapse on to the mats with a throbbingly painful left index finger bearing down with all my might on that horrible flat crimp. I tried many foot placements but they all felt pretty off balance and I never once held the move.

I could easily blame poor skin/fatigue and climbing on tape but I think after this session and the cave one a couple of days earlier, I am lacking in several areas.

I need more body tension on steep ground, a stronger core/back/fingers/arms. Pretty much everything! I haven't trained properly in a very long time, spending time flitting between short problems below my limit both indoors and out and infrequently redpointing long power endurance lines with no really hard moves.

Mon 16th
Today I decided to try something different and went the gym with Hoppo. We worked on sets of bicep curls till failure - aimed at improving on undercuts for LA. We later moved on to deadlifts aimed at improving body strength for both LA and DP. I'm going to make an effort to try and train these weaknesses for the next few weeks and see if I can make any progress on the two aforementioned problems that have spanked me so hard.