Weak Week

After getting back from font I decided I probably needed a rest. So I took 2 days off after about 10 on and felt pretty good with new thick tips and everything!

I had a good campus session on the Mills' board then another strong session in the crypt on my V7 green = outdoor V10ish (Harder than Sparks with more moves and 3 cruxes instead of 2, the hardest being 2nd to last move). Enjoying this feeling of stength I took another 2 rest days and went to the wall on Sunday afternoon...

I was testing out a new weight belt that Tom got me as a bargain birthday gift and circuited the new step wall up to the V5's without too much hassle. I removed the belt to crush the harder lines but to my dismay I managed to get 5 flappers across several joints on both hands from some scrittly shitty holds that were a bit sharper than I expected! Devestated, I had to tape up 4 fingers and had a really poor session (not being able to send 5 of my own problems).

I went the wall on Monday afternoon and decided to make up for Sunday's bad session by working 2 of the problems I couldn't do from the day before and got 1 of them first go. I failed on the last move of the other due to it being another dynamic move with more flapper potential if not caught perfectly...so I backed off and felt defeated, although slightly more satisfied than the previous day.

I hate my hands, whenever the arms feel great (i.e. most of the time) my skin is falling apart either on the tips or the joints and I seem to be forever climbing on tape and glue.

I had a mixed return to Pantymwyn last night with Si H. With an unexpectedly large crew down there, we had to queue for problems! I warmed up and felt like a sack of shit but thought I would just try and get the moves of Sparks into the system again. I couldn't believe how bad the left heel-toe felt to get the dish over the lip and how hard the last move was again! I only managed the heeltoe move once in about 8 attempts and failed to do the last move. The rest wasn't too bad but I just didn't feel good on it at all. It all felt like a path till the last move when I was there a month ago (failing on the last move from the start 3 times in a row).

I sacked off Sparks in the end and put it down to the amount of tape covering my hands as well as lethargy and a greasy dish over the lip but I might have lost some power too from all that technique based climbing I have been doing!

Afterwards, me and Chester Si got on Mental extension and it got crushed in about 3 goes. Considering how shit I felt it was nice to get something positive from the day and I'm keen for Thug mentality as another problem for next time.

I really need my hands to repair as soon as possible so I can climb tapeless, so it looks like I'll have to just do some arm work on a bar, lots of core and maybe some deadhanging on small edges to feel like I'm not slacking off. Today's deadhang/pressup/core session at the wall was good and I'll probably rest a couple days now incase there is a chance of getting out on the hallowed lime this weekend.