I've spent the first half of this year getting out to lots of new venues thanks to a remarkable run of good weather that coincided with the end of my 12 week training Period. Some times things do go according to plan.
May
I went to new venues(!) and ticked off some great problems such as Baby Buddha roof, Limehouse and Flick of the Wrist. I also ventured back to the cave of justice after a long break, feeling well and truly rejuvenated. Quick ticks of Left Wall high, Hatch Life and Hatchatrocity followed and I felt stronger than ever on Louis Armstrong getting the start wired into the slap and the finish from the lip sorted again.
June
I enjoyed a nice trip to Cyprus with Laura which involved little in the way of training apart from a days play in the amazing and extortionately priced Paphos waterpark!
Just before Cyprus, another 2 new venues and another 2 great problems were ticked off in the shape of Nazgul's traverse at Rhiw Goch and Cosmic Wheels up on the Mallory Boulder. I can't wait for it to get a bit cooler and get back for Lightweight and Will at the respective venues.
July
A quiet start to the month just climbing indoors to get back some strength and it was back to redpoint last move failure in the cave. I had 3-4 sessions dropping the end of Pilgrim battling sweaty conditions as we went through a miraculous 3 week+ heat wave (Which may last a bit longer still?!).
Yesterday things seemed to settle well and it wasnt as oppressively hot as on the previous few trips down to N Wales. A stress free drive down the A55 and we were once again on the wonderful sunny Orme. Instead of climbing in the midday heat, we ventured down to Sea View Walls. Laura and I did the good warmups to the right and then the main event of Flashpoint was padded out. Mike was ever the gentleman and allowed me to try first, which put the pressure on to give it a decent attempt. Luckily I had screwed on my strong arms this day and before I knew what was going on, I was carefully mantling the lip up out of the gloom and into glorious sunshine. A bonefide 3* welsh classic. Mike came up with an alternative beast method and quickly followed me up. I shook my way up from the sitter pumped out of my mind by the extra 3 hand movements and Mike then made it look piss again :)
The uphill scramble in the heat nearly finished us off but by the time we reached the cars, we were ready for a bit more action. A quick lap over the top of the Orme and back around through the toll and we were back once again sat in the dirt at the back of a dusty cave.
For some reason unbenownst to me, I had brought inappropriate H&M low slung hipster shorts that were a bit tight on the thighs and could have proved a crucial error if Laura hadn't pulled some stretchy ladies prana shorts out of the bag. I stripped down to me bills, leaving my teams on and the breeze between my legs felt exquisite. Realising I wouldn't be able to hold chalk patches on my sweaty thighs, I squeezed into the ladies shorts and they were the perfect fit!
I set off on Pilgrim without a rewarm-up and felt fresh as a daisy by the time I got into Rockatrocity. A quick chalk and shake and it was business time. I caught the flake like a spacker but managed to take my hand off and grab it properly once matched. I climbed on fast forward to the end and crucially grabbed the finish slot in the right place. A quick leg clamp and a desperate match followed which finally felt acceptable! Relief.
Needless to say, inspired by seeing a lanky punter achieve, Mike Psyche walked along it, got the finish hold and then hung on 1 arm for a good 10 seconds waving to the crowds and hustling before a match ;)The highlight of July however, was going to Laura's graduation day last Tuesday, which was blessed with perfect sunshine. I was so proud to see her finish off her 5 years of proper hard work and come out of it with a 1st, a distinction and a short term contract to get her started! :)
